Located at an altitude of over 3,000 meters in the picturesque Andes Mountains of Ecuador sits Ingapirca, the largest and best preserved archaeological site in Ecuador. Affectionately known as “The Machu Picchu of Ecuador”, it is also the most important Inca site in the country.  What makes this site particularly unique is that it stands as a lasting record of the joining of two cultures – the original Cañari people, a matriarchal society that worshipped the moon, and their Inca conquerors, a patriarchal society that worshipped the sun. Remarkably, the two peoples lived harmoniously, celebrating their commonalities and respecting their differences.

The Ancient Origins of Ingapirca

The site of Ingapirca (meaning ‘Inca Wall’ in Kichwa) had long been settled by the Cañari indigenous people, who named it Hatun Cañar. Excavations at the site unearthed a 1,200-year-old burial of an elite female with ten women surrounding her, who had drunk poison to be with their female leader in death.  They built a circular moon temple, as well as a rock calendar that recorded the lunar cycle.

Towards the end of the 15^th century, the Inca arrived led by Túpac Yupanqui. The intention was to quickly subjugate the Cañari people and amalgamate their territory. However, the Cañari fiercely defended their territory and were not so easily defeated. So the Inca proposed a political alliance. The Inca nobles married the Cañari princesses and a pact was negotiated in which it was agreed they would live together – the Inca would have a strategic base in the area, while the Cañari would have the protection of the Inca warriors.

The city was renamed and a new hybrid community was formed. Although the Inca were more numerous, they did not demand that the Cañari give up their autonomy. The Cañari continued to manage their own affairs and retained their individual customs, but adopted the language of the Inca. Together they celebrated common festivities, drinking large quantities of fermented beverages. Yet, separately they continued with their individual beliefs – the Cañari worshipping the moon and the Inca worshipping the sun.

The new city served as an important religious, political, military and administrative center for both the Inca and the Cañari.

Features of the New City

Ingapirca today displays an interesting combination of both Inca and Cañari architecture. The rough stone walls with mortar and rounded half-moon temple reflect the Cañari civilization, while the rectangular buildings and highly-precise walls built without mortar reflect the Inca culture.

The site is also composed of temples, chambers for priests, a ceremonial plaza, cobblestone streets, a solar observatory, a lunar calendar, storage rooms, ritual baths, dwellings, and a sophisticated advanced aqueduct system to distribute water to the entire compound.

By far the most impressive structure at Ingapirca is the Temple of the Sun, also known as El Castillo (The Castle), an elliptical-shaped building that aligns perfectly with the summer solstice. The stones were carefully chiseled and polished and positioned to fit together perfectly without mortar.

The End of Ingapirca

The growth of Ingapirca was short-lived because the Spanish arrived before it was even completed. The city was ransacked and its inhabitants were slaughtered. The conquistadors knocked down most of the buildings and took the stone to build churches. The site lay abandoned for centuries and became covered with vegetation.

Ingapirca had long been forgotten until a farmer discovered the ruins in his field. The Ecuadorian government began an extensive restoration project in the 1970s, and many of the original stones that had been stolen were returned to the site. The site is now open to the public and is run by the local Cañari people, who give guided tours for free, sharing the story of their past to all who come to visit.

By April Holloway

All images copyright Ancient Origins.

References

Atlas Obscura (2014) – Ingapirca. Available from: http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/ingapirca

Enciclopedia del Ecuador – Cañari Confederation. Available from: http://www.enciclopediadelecuador.com/temasOpt.php?Ind=354

Hyslop, John (19 February 2014). Inka Settlement Planning. Austin, Texas: University of Texas Press.

Lauderbaugh, George (22 February 2012). The History of Ecuador. Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Publishing Group.

With special thanks to the Cañari people, who shared their knowledge with us.

Het bericht Ingapirca: Proof that the Inca Respected the Cultures of those they Conquered verscheen eerst op Community Adventures Ecuador.

Tucked away in the Andean slopes of Ecuador, lies the quiet and picturesque village of Vilcabamba. Known to many as the ‘Valley of Longevity’, Vilcabamba has a reputation for being home to one of the highest concentrations of exceptionally old people, including numerous centenarians and a number of residents apparently reaching 140 years.

The name ‘Vilcabamba’ derives from the indigenous Quichua “huilco pamba”, meaning Sacred Valley. Originally a retreat for Inca rulers, it also became known as the ‘Playground of the Inca’. Inca royals travelled to the valley to renew and refresh their health, and it’s no wonder they chose Vilcabamba as their destination – the area is blessed with pristine water, pure air, rich soil, and a permanent Spring-like climate, where fruits, vegetables, and medicinal plants thrive all year round.

The Quichuan word ‘huilco’ also refers to a sacred tree found in the valley. The Anadenanthera colubrine tree (known also as Willka, Vilca or Huilca), is considered to be a treasure in Ecuador and is deemed to be holy among the Quichuan. Its leaves are used to treat respiratory ailments and asthma and the tree is also valued for its ability to bring back pristine oxygen and block pollutants in the air, which many believe is a contributing factor to the residents’ good health and longevity.

Vilcabamba is overlooked by a mountain called El Mandango, ‘the Sleeping Inca’. Local  legend says that the spirit of the mountain protects the area from earthquakes, volcanoes, and other natural disasters.

The Sacred Valley was peacefully inhabited for centuries with very little contact from the wider world. However, in 1973, Dr Alexander Leaf of Harvard Medical School drew international attention to Vilcabamba following a cover story for National Geographic Magazine about the residents’ longevity. Two books further enhanced the town’s reputation. In 1975, Dr. David Davies, an English gerontologist, published ‘The Centenarians of the Andes’ about his research in Vilcabamba, and in 1976, popular author Grace Halsell published ‘Los Viejos: Secrets of Long Life from the Sacred Valley’.

Since then, news (and rumors) of the longevity and incredible health of ‘Los Viejos’ (The Old Ones) spread far and wide. Mixed in with scientific reports of good health and old age, were stories about the people of Vilcabamba being immune to death. It was said that the Grim Reaper passed by the valley but never entered it. Travel magazines began referring to Vilcabamba as ‘Shangri La’, a place where magic happens, ‘The Land of Eternal Youth’, ‘The Lost Gardens of Eden’ and the ‘Isle of Immunity’. Scientists and reporters began flocking to the quaint little village, featuring elderly locals on Ripley’s Believe It or Not and releasing reports in National Geographic, Reader’s Digest, and other major media outlets.

Old Age in Vilcabamba

When Dr. Alexander Leaf visited Vilcabamba in 1973, along with Dr. Harold Elrick of the University of California at San Diego, and a group from the University of Quito, they found that many of the residents reported their age at over 100 years old, and a few stated their age as being over 140 years. This was apparently confirmed by birth and baptismal records.

A census in Loja (the region in which Vilcabamba is located) the following year appeared to back up this information. Out of a total population of 819 people at the time, 9 people were older than 100 years, one man, Miguel Carpio, said he was 123, and another man, Jose David, reported his age as 142 years. This meant that Vilcabamba had a rate of 1,100 centenarians per 100,000 population, compared to only 3 per 100,000 in the U.S.

Good health in the Sacred Valley

The scientific team led by Dr Leaf found that the residents of Vilcambamba had very low cholesterol and there was a virtual absence of heart disease and chronic illness.  Later research showed that the retinas of the oldest residents were comparable to those of 45 year-olds.

In 1981, the Ecuadorian government hired medical journalist Dr. Morton Walker to study the residents. In his book, “The Secret to a Youthful Long Life”, Dr. Walker reported on the good health of the elderly villagers, which he attributed to the mineral rich water in Vilcabamba. The water flows into the valley from the Podocarpus National Forest, a protected Ecuadorian regional preserve which claims to have pre-Ice Age microorganisms and one of the world’s few remaining pristine rainforests.

British biochemist, Dr Richard Laurence Millington Synge, a Nobel Chemistry Prize winner and the man who discovered amino acids, stated that there are remarkable medicinal qualities to be found in the plant life in Vilcabamba, particularly with regards to their anti-oxidant properties.

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Age Exaggeration?

While it is clear that the residents of Vilcabamba experience optimal health, a number of skeptics have come forward to challenge the incredible age claims of the residents.

According to The Bewildering History of the History of Longevity by Peter Laslett, “geographical variation in the incidence of long life is no doubt a reality but better general survival does not demonstrably raise the probability of extreme ages and systematic, skeptical analysis of these confidently asserted propositions has condemned them as entirely baseless.”

Indeed, a few inconsistencies started to appear in age reports following Dr Leaf’s initial research. For example, in 1971 he had met a man who said he was 122 years old. However, when Dr Leaf returned to Vilcabamba in 1974, the same man claimed to be 134 years. This tendency to exaggerate age was found to be linked to a cultural trend to treat the elderly with great honor – the older they were, the more respect they were given. Although this trend had been around for centuries, Dr Leaf theorized that the international publicity and rise in tourism, may have encouraged the villagers’ exaggerations.

Dr Leaf acquired the help of Dr. Richard Mazess of the University of Wisconsin Madison and Dr. Sylvia Forman of the University of California Berkeley to investigate the correct ages of Vilcabamba’s elderly population. This research revealed a problem with checking ages against birth and baptismal records – many family members carried the same first and last name. This meant that the birth date of an identically named uncle or father appeared to confirm the extreme longevity of a resident. The research team finally reached the conclusion that “Individual longevity in Vilcabamba is little, if any, different from that found throughout the rest of the world.”

While many still insist that Vilcabamba has a disproportionately high level of very old people, rumors of ‘Shangri La’ and the ‘Land of Eternal Youth’ can safely be dismissed. However, although the people of Vilcabamba may not live longer than the rest of the world, they certainly seem to live better. Their hard work at high altitude, combined with an excellent diet, good water, lots of sunshine, and few outside influences have kept generations of Vilcabambans happy and healthy. Vilcabamba today is a popular destination for visitors and tourists to seek an escape from the stresses of daily life, just as the Inca rulers had centuries before.

Featured image: View over Vilcabamba, Ecuador. Credit: Waldorf27 / Dreamstime

References:

Bland, A. (2013). Vilcabamba: Paradise Going Bad? Life in this legendary town in Ecuador’s Valley of Longevity may be too good—and too long—to be true. Smithsonian.com. Available from: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/vilcabamba-paradise-going-bad-21774567/?no-ist

Laslett, P. The Bewildering History of the History of Longevity. Max Planck Institute for Demographic Research. Available from: http://www.demogr.mpg.de/books/odense/6/02.htm

Mazess, R.B. & Forman, S.H. (1979). Longevity and age exaggeration in Vilcabamba, Ecuador. Journal of Gerontology. 34(1): 94-98.

Vilcabamba: the town of very old people – Hoaxes.org. Available from: http://hoaxes.org/archive/permalink/vilcabamba_the_town_of_very_old_people

Vilcabamba, Ecuador – Lonely Planet. Available from: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ecuador/the-southern-highlands/vilcabamba

By April Holloway

Het bericht Secrets of Vilcabamba, Playground of the Inca and Valley of Longevity verscheen eerst op Community Adventures Ecuador.

After building trust with a local Shuar village, Ancient Origins returned once again to explore the Tayos caves in Ecuador.  While the search for hidden cave entrances continues, our recent expedition also demonstrated that the secrets of the area may go beyond the caves and tales of Father Crespi and his mysterious treasures.

Day One

The journey to the village where our host Luis lives near the Pastaza River is not an easy one – but it sure is exciting for those who crave the adventure that accompanies steep, slippery slopes, a “bridge of danger” (a thin tree trunk and another piece of wood placed beside it), and outcroppings of jagged rocks in the Amazonian jungle.

Our small group was comprised of Ancient Origins’ team members John and Alicia, and archaeology enthusiasts and AO Premium members Wendi and Scott. We arrived to the village with a few bumps and bruises, but altogether ready to begin the search for cave entrances and whatever else may arise.

The community welcomed us warmly and were glad to have new visitors. As we prepared our simple rooms we were provided with some papaya from their garden. We conversed over dinner about past and future guests before heading down to the river to do some stargazing.  As the fog rolled in we returned to the dark lodging house where a cold bucket shower awaited those who felt the humidity was already having its affect.

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We soon learned that we were not the only beings in that lodging – bats and a snake made their appearance known that night and over the next few days.

Day Two

We were served a hearty breakfast in preparation for what was to be a very long day. At 8:30am we set out with a spring in our step. Unfortunately, shortly after we had passed some slim paths we were attacked by powerful wasps which could pierce our clothing and hold on even when we tried to shake and swat them off. That experience left most of us with some big red welts for the rest of the expedition.

We weren’t going to let that unlucky experience stop us though! Our first planned stop was to visit one of the cave entrances found during the last expedition. After repelling in, John informed us that it was unpassable once inside.

So, we set off along the beach towards another set of tunnels which were partially explored last time. When we had conquered the slippery mud on the way in, we were met by an endless series of angry bats and birds. Lucky for us they only swooped down and crossed our path. The screeching of the distressed animals may provide some explanation for why the Shuar people believed that spirits could be found within the cave and would not continue to search those tunnels after a certain point.

We waded (and sometimes swam) through varied levels of cool waters and eventually reached a place that was seemingly unpassable – at least at first glance. Scott braved the cliffs and entered what we soon called “the Scott Path” a small area that was near the roof of the cave and involved very careful footwork to cross jagged rocks.

After hours of numerous slips, falls, scrapes and bruises, we eventually reached the end of this cave. No treasure or traces of it were found within. We did, however, find evidence of possible stone tools amongst an assemblage of soft black rocks. Apart from this, we noticed a strange white substance with gold droplets on some pieces of twig-like objects as well. Up from one black rock and white substance grouping we found the skeleton of a bird.

On our way out, another surprise was waiting to be found– a snake peeked out at us from a crevice just behind where we gingerly stepped into the cool waters. The serpent let us be, and we made haste towards the end of that section.

As we passed one section of the cave we noticed a passage above us that could have held a small room. John scaled the slippery rocks and set off inside to check things out as we flashed a light from another side to see if it was a real room or just a short passage. The light was seen and John prepared to make his descent…only to find that the way he had climbed up was not so easy to return down.

Scott was ready to help once again and offered to guide John’ feet back down the wall. Unlucky for him, the seemingly secure footing he used to raise himself up a little higher was not what it appeared. As the rock ledge he was standing on broke away, Scott fell down onto his back into the middle of the passage! This was probably the only time he was happy to be carrying the large and padded backpack!

Despite the increasing numbers of cuts, scrapes, bumps, and bruises, the team kept their spirits up and continued our search for interesting sites on the long trek back to our lodging. We were rewarded for our curiosity with a mysterious rock structure that ran along a large section of land near the river. However, we had to leave it behind for at least one night, as 6pm and the quick falling darkness was on its way.

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Day Three

We found a way to pass the still active wasp hive and headed straight for the rock structure that called our attention the afternoon before. There we searched the area in front of the rocks and noted the appearance of “toes” at the foot of the structure. But the rocks could not be our focus that day and after a quick survey of the area we continued to search for cave entrances.

The sun had come out in full force, so we were ready for a swim by the time we reached some calmer waters along the river. As some of us cooled ourselves in the cool water, Wendi set off over a smaller “rock wall” and explored the area nearby. She found a possible cave entrance under some trees and called the rest of the team over to investigate.

We all searched the difficult terrain for more cave entrances, and the result of that afternoon’s work was at least five possible entrances in a relatively small area. However, the hot sun and physical stressors began to take its toll on the team and we had to return to camp a little earlier that day.

Day Four

The rock structure called our attention once more and we decided to spend some more time examining it. However, we could not find any entrances that we could get through or any clear archaeological material suggesting its purpose or creation. Thus, the team split in two groups and hacked our way through the brush to climb up and over the apparent “wall” of giant rocks, but we still found no entrance or concrete evidence that the large stones had been placed intentionally. Without other tools, we were unable to see past or under the large stones. So, their origins remain uncertain.

Next, we went in the search of the source of a stream we had crossed the day before. The river had risen quite a lot over the last few days and we saw clear clues of the impending rainy season. The team climbed and slashed our way through brush up towards the white rock face that stood far above the river.

We experienced some serious rock climbing that day. We made our way up a steep slope of rock with natural hand and footholds and found another series of entrances. Unfortunately, all the openings proved to be impenetrable and one sharp rock inside provided a deep cut into a team member’s hand.

Following our descent, one of the team members took ill and another suffered a fall on the rocky river edge. We returned to our lodging where we mended ourselves more thoroughly with the medkits and tried to rest our aching bodies on the lightly cushioned beds.

Later that evening nature helped soothe us as it revealed its beauty once again – this time in the form of a blanket of stars.

Day Five – Departure

On our final morning in the Tayos village we awakened to see that the clear night we marveled at just so recently had turned into a rather foreboding morning sky. Our departure for Cuenca was planned for 7:30am and, despite the increasing clouds and more frequent rain drops, we said our goodbyes to the village.

Some of our hosts were kind enough to accompany and aid us as we inched our way up the steep hill, through the mud, past the (now slippery) “bridge of danger”, and pressed on through the rain up towards the road.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, by the time we reached the top about an hour later the clouds had cleared and a warm sun welcomed us once again.

Wrapping Up an Expedition

New Tayos cave entrances are still awaiting exploration and the nearby rock structure continues to beckon with its mystery. What secrets does this fascinating region still hold and when will they be revealed?

Our time in the Tayos village and caves was an experience no one will forget. The following are reflections written by Wendi and Scott on what they’ve taken away from this expedition with Ancient Origins.

Wendi

My interest in anthropology and archaeology started many years ago. The expedition experience with Ancient Origins offered the perfect opportunity to experience firsthand the field aspects of both disciplines.

I found the challenge of trekking through the Amazon forest stimulating and confidence building. Exploring the Tayos Caves was an arduous but thrilling experience. Searching the river bluffs for unknown entrances was exciting and invigorating. I particularly enjoyed the Shuar people and living in their environment.

The staff of Ancient Origins are knowledgeable and helpful. Their friendliness and companionship goes well beyond their professional obligations.

Scott

Anyone who knows me knows my life began with a love for archaeology. Many trips planned have been thwarted by political unrest or personal tragedy throughout my 63 years of experiences. Finally, this trip with John and Alicia of Ancient Origins fulfilled all my years of wondering and waiting for the opportunity. The Ancient Origins expedition whet my appetite for many more such adventures.

If one makes the time, their guidance is superb and highly affordable. It exceeds your expectations for real adventure back into history and our ancient origins.

By Alicia McDermott/Ancient Origins

All images are the copyright of Ancient Origins.

Top Image: “Toes” seen at the base of the strange rock structure found on the expedition.

Het bericht New Expedition Hints at a Lost City Near the Tayos Caves in Ecuador verscheen eerst op Community Adventures Ecuador.

The ruins of the Pucará de Rumicucho are well-preserved walls of an Pre-hispanic, Incan fortress. They are located a one hour drive north of Quito, Ecuador. The fortress was built in the end of the 15th century by Tupac Yupanqui, the tenth Sapa Inca (God Emperor). However, archaeologists have shown that the site predates the Inca period and served as more than just a military stronghold. The key location of the site corresponds well with astronomical activities as well. Today the ruins are well-maintained and frequent tourist visits, as well as indigenous ceremonies, take place there.

Architectural Features of The Stone Fortress

The name Pucará de Rumicucho, is Kichwa meaning fortress (Pucara) of stone (Rumi) corner (cucho), often translated as The Stone Fortress. This is an obviously descriptive name for at least one of the previous uses of the site. It has also been called Lulumbamba – “fertile plain.” It is believed that it was constructed between 1480 and 1500, by the Inca ruler Tupac Yupanqui.

The structure on the site consists of five terraces and measures at 400 meters (1312 feet) long, 100 meters (328 feet) wide and 20 meters (65.5 feet) high. The cut-stone walls are made up of pucarui (reddish color) and pugshi (volcanic ash) as well as chocoto and pumice stone. The dating of the fortress construction of between 1480-1500 has been decided upon by this particular stone and mortar combination.

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The stone fotress is situated atop a hill, providing a perfect view not only of invading forces, but also of the mountains surrounding it on three sides and the valley to the South.

Artifacts Discovered at the Site of Rumicucho

Archaeologists have been excavating the Pucará de Rumicucho since 1976 when Ecuadorian archaeologist, Eduardo Almeida, started his study of the site financed by the Ecuadorian Central Bank Museum. It  was continually excavated from that time until 1990.

Rumicucho was rich in cultural material and some of the artifacts encountered at the site include: stone tools, metal, ceramic pottery (mostly creted by local Pre-Inca cultures), and shell and camelid bone objects such as needles, hairpins, awls and zoomorphic figurines. Today these artifacts are mostly exhibted in the Banco Central Museum in Quito, although an on-site museum has recently opened with the goal to return materials “home” and to increase the cultural and social value of the site.

The Multi-Use Site of Pucará de Rumicucho

The Pucará de Rumicucho is part of a chain of Incan fortresses showing their expansion and military rule over captured lands. The Incan military infrastructure often included paths, bridges, tambos (inns or resting places) and pucaráes (fortresses). The Pucará de Rumicucho was constructed as a military control center in the Quito territory, helping to advance the conquest over the Cayambe and Caranqui villages.

Although the Rumicucho fortress was arguably constructed during the Inca period, there is a strong belief by archaeologists that the site was used before the Incan invasion of Ecuador. Archaeological evidence suggests that it may have also been used by the Pre-Incan Caranquis, Quitus, Panzaleos and Cuasmal. Another explanation for Pre-Inca artifacts is that the Incas living at the site shared the space with the local communities.

Archaeologists have divided the site of Rumicucho into three sections for different uses based on their discoveries. There is the ceremonial section on the third terrace, a ritual and food consumption space on the first and second terraces, and it is believed that the rest of the space was used for workshops and housing.

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The Secrets of the Oval Rooms and Rumi Jatun

Two oval rooms and the Rumi Jatun (giant rock), which is aligned perfectly with two mountains have lead many to believe that the site of Rumicucho also had an important astronomical role. Some have suggested that the rock represents the sun during the day and at night it can be filled with water as a mirror of the stars. The two rooms have been associated with the solstices. As is known, the Inca civilization had an advanced knowledge regarding astronomy and often built their structures with it in mind.

The two rooms and the giant rock are located in the northern part of the ruins, and despite rigorous studies, it has yet to be discovered what secrets they hold. It has only been agreed upon that they were not casually created.

The Secrets of the Oval Rooms and Rumi Jatun

Two oval rooms and the Rumi Jatun (giant rock), which is aligned perfectly with two mountains have lead many to believe that the site of Rumicucho also had an important astronomical role. Some have suggested that the rock represents the sun during the day and at night it can be filled with water as a mirror of the stars. The two rooms have been associated with the solstices. As is known, the Inca civilization had an advanced knowledge regarding astronomy and often built their structures with it in mind.

The two rooms and the giant rock are located in the northern part of the ruins, and despite rigorous studies, it has yet to be discovered what secrets they hold. It has only been agreed upon that they were not casually created.

Modern day Uses of the Stone Fortress Site

These days the Pucará de Rumicucho, like many Andean archaeological sites, serves sacred connection to the past. The location on the equator has connected it to a ritual of the “hombre sin sombra” (man without a shadow.) Many indigenous shamans have used this space for rituals during solstices.

The site is also popular for tourists and students. The well-maintained space and beautiful views has created interest for local and to a lesser extent foreign tourism. For these reasons the stone fortress has been routinely visited since Almeida’s excavations in 1976.

Due to the number of visitors to the site for sacred, educational and touristic purposes, there is a real concern by local authorities for the future of the Pucará de Rumicucho. The urban advance also threatens as Ecuador’s capital city continues to grow. One can hope that the well-planned Incan astronomy as well as the archaeological and sacred value of the site will preserve it.

Featured image: The ruins of the Pucará de Rumicucho, San Antonio de Pichincha, Ecuador (INyar/Flickr)

By Alicia McDermott

Het bericht Pucara de Rumicucho Is More than just an Incan Stone Fortress verscheen eerst op Community Adventures Ecuador.